Can you believe it? In the Plaza San Diego, the massive, red, fortress-like eponymous monastery has been turned into a luxury hotel. Likewise with the convent of Santa Teresa. I mean, eeek! But fortunately, next to the Plaza Fernandez de Madrid is to be found the small and humble façade of the church of Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo. Now this was all closed up when we passed earlier, but suddenly the doors were open and the lights were on! So we popped in, and it’s the run up to his feast day; he sounds quite important, too: Patron of the Bishops of America, Defender of the Indians, Negros and the Poor of America! But this fiesta was fairly low-key, mainly because it’s Lent, but also because it’s going to last nine days, and this is only the first day… But take a look up at the ceiling, and down to the reredos: of all the churches in the historical part of Cartagena, this must surely be the most beautiful.
After that, there was only one thing to do: to pay an extended visit to Don Fidel Leautau, who is always to be found running his bar in the Portal de los Dulces. It’s the best sound system in Cartagena, with the best salsa collection in the whole of Colombia. Wow, was this music loud! But hypnotic, infectious, and, of course, totally addictive! Everybody was out for a good time, and the finger clicking and loud singing around the bar told us so!
Finally, it was time to feast and we went in search of arepas. We will try and find the exact recipe for you.
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