Our day was spent cycling to a paradise beach with an electrifyingly blue lagoon, tucked in a bay of brilliant white powdery sand with dark, volcanic boulders dotted around in the surrounding green reeds. The descent from the central highlands to this coastal wonderland was one of the most thrilling bike-rides we’ve ever undertaken! We entered onto the Playa Anakana with caution as we first had to track through a coconut palm forest. People get killed by falling coconuts more regularly than any of us believe and we have no intention of being the next victims. On this success, we emerged from the soothing shade into the blistering beams of the sun, where we stood and marvelled at more Moai statues! Magnifico! And some of these even had their pukara on top of their heads, restored by Thor Heyerdal. After a swim and a paddle, rehydration was absolutely necessary and we indulged in a couple of overpriced cans of pop! “Slurp!”
We decided to take the coastal route back to Hanga Roa to make one complete circle, plus the Ruta Costera was extremely stunning the first time round. Apart from the wind always blowing forcefully against us, we were just fine! Small families of wild horses appeared every so often along the way. Maybe some of them were the ones we saw on our first cycle ride, but who really knows? We watched a large bird of prey swooping into grassy humps in search of dinner whilst listening to the repeatedly large waves as they brutally bashed the cliff side. Its slender body, massive wingspan and elongated tail made it look just like a pterodactyl as it closed in on us… And then we descended once more into Tongariki, and the combination of much better quality mountain bikes, deep blue sea, turquoise surf and the sun glinting on these giant Moai made this sector of the ride one of those moments we’ll cherish forever.
Meanwhile, back in Hanga Roa, we settle into life in the kitchen, which is very much the hub of the household, with comings and goings and plenty of banter. Tonight José gives us a deep lecture about Chilean mining. Simon tries to stop him in full flow with a question about the Thirty Three, but he manages to avoid an answer and completes his conspectus of the mineral deposits of the north of the country. Did you realise that they burrow out deep under the sea to reach the best seams? We know now!
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