Islands of the Caribbean; the Orinoco & Amazon Rivers; the Brazilian states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte, Pernambuco and Paraná; Paraguay, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile & Easter Island, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela: Natural wonders, colonial cities, great food and fantastic music!

Thursday, 24 February 2011

Cusco: Day 2, Jon Visits Incan Sites

Well, what a day! From the moment we arrived in Cuzco, Jon was inspired by the surrounding shanty houses that cling to the high Andes that surround the city. They slightly resemble the ones he got to know during his time in Brazil. After a light breakfast of the world's best chocolate milkshake (quality and quantity!) he quickly flicked through the Lonely Planet in order to find his direction of ascent towards the statue of Christ that overlooks Cuzco, like in Rio de Janeiro. How great would it be to make a compariason?
Jon went in search of Calle Resbalosa, the narrow street which is recommended to walk up in order to access Cuzco's Cristo. Well, although he didn't find the street, he wandered a little lost in the general direction and soon found himself marching up some very steep stone steps, that seemed to be swallowed up by the maze of shanty brick huts. He continued cautiously and was relieved to see a fellow backpacker climbing the same route. Jon asked him if he was going the right way to get to his destination and the helpful man, who was also heading for the same terminus, confirmed the uncertainty and decided to join him. This hiker introduced himself as Ivan and was from Uruguay. It was great to be able to converse with him in detail about Colonial del Sacramento, the one place that we visited in Uruguay. He only knew a few phrases in English, so Jon's poor head was pounding after a solid few hours speaking virtually only Spanish!
As they continued up some steps, an old, local inhabitant directed them across a narrow and very slippery, muddy path to a pack of wild-looking dogs. They were happy going about their own business and were, fortunately, not the over-territorial type. Further on though, a fraction of the way up another even steeper stairway, a loud and fierce mutt began barging his head off and making slight snorting sounds, which Jon supposed were meant to be growls. As he hadn't had his rabies shots, Jon wasn't taking any chances and slowly retreated to the path to try the next set of steps along, praying that there would be no other ferocious beast lying in wait of trespassers. Ivan saw sense and followed, also hiding every ounce of fear.
There was another dog lying in wait, but it was just a small, yippy kind; more annoying than scary. It was barking madly, but was only scampering around them with no real intent of clamping its jaws into their ankles.
When Jon and Ivan reached the peak, a much deserved break was needed as the high altitude air is not so rich in oxygen like they are accustomed to. Acclimatisation is definitely a long process! The statue of Christ is very impressive but is much ssmaller than the one in Rio. It was brilliant white, but a fence had been put round it unfortunately, perhaps so that no dim pranksters graffiti it or something. At night the statue glows brightly due to the intense lights that are carefully tilted all around it. Whilst at the feet of the Cristo, an amazing view of the whole city of Cuzco beneath required some photographic attention. It was incredible to observe the terracotta rooftops and even a plane taking off!
Nearby, there was the ancient historical Inca site called Saqsaywamán where grass attempts to cover the tops of the large, grey Inca blocks that hold themselves up through perfect tesselation, as opposed to our conventional cement methods. Plus these bricks are so heavy that I don't doubt for a second that it required several people to lift each of them. It was a real step back in time and was an escape from the feel of the dominant (but beautiful) architecture of the Spanish conquistadores that overide the majority of the city. The Spanish, in fact, took bricks from this site and used them in part of their newer constructions in the centre, although they aren't visible everywhere rather in just a few narrow alleys and small streets.
Jon had found great amusement in watching a young Peruvian boy herding three llamas. For his short, matchstick legs, his ballistic shouting and sprinting methods were probably the most effective possible and they indeed seemed to work.
On the descent of return, Ivan and Jon were fortunate enough to stumble on a midday fiesta that signified the start of a carnaval. People in traditional dress were merrily downing beers whilst one huge collection of sizzled, open-mouthed cuys (ginuea pigs) were waiting to be chomped on. Jon's one last night was enough for him though!
As Jon continued to meet Simon for lunch and find out how his day was, he realised that he was walking down the street that he was trying to find earlier. 'Calle Resbalosa' translates to 'Slippery Street' and he found it obvious why!



















1 comment:

  1. when i visited this site it was just before the summer soltiste and huge scafolding seating areas are set up so you can watch the sun rise over it.....but its a fantastic site to see and you can feel the history from it....are you guys going machhu pitchu?...if you do go early so you can get the full atmosphere before it gets invaded by visitors....

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